Morocco – With the Duster through the Atlas Mountains
Trip Duration
2 weeks
Type of Trip
Road trip by rental car
Highlight
Atlas Mountains
Budget
approx. €30–60 / day
Morocco – the land of contrasts: oases and desert, mountains and Atlantic, medina and mint tea. For two weeks, we drove across the country in a Dacia Duster and embarked on an adventure full of improvisation, freedom, and surprises. Here comes our honest travel report – with all the highs, lows, and favorite moments!
Marrakesh
Our adventure starts in Marrakesh – or rather: right at the airport, where we grab a rental car (Dacia Duster, almost new, not an ad, but it really delivered 💪). Traffic rules? More like optional. Parking? Chaos on the level of “Tetris with honking cars”.
We only spend one night in the city, but the whole day out and about: through the narrow alleys of the medina, past spice stalls, donkeys, scooters, and crowds. Marrakesh is loud, colorful, overwhelming – and definitely an experience.
Ouzoud
The next day we head towards Ouzoud – the famous waterfalls. The drive there is an absolute dream: red rocks, green valleys, and again and again small villages you roll through at walking pace. On site, we spontaneously book accommodation with a view into the valley and then head down to the waterfalls.
What you don’t expect here: wild Barbary apes, which roam freely and are a bit too spoiled by tourists (Watch out: keep your backpack closed and food well stowed!). The nature around is super green – almost tropical. The place definitely invites you to linger.
Atlas Mountains
From Ouzoud we continue towards La Cathédrale Imsfrane and later towards Agouti. We don’t have a fixed plan – and that’s exactly what makes this part so special. We stop where we like. Drive where it’s green. Hike through Berber villages where you feel like you’re in another time.
The Atlas Mountains are, for me personally, the absolute highlight of this trip. I could easily have stayed another week. The roads? Sure, not European – but much better than expected. Our Duster conquers even the most remote mountain roads without complaint. And since we always book our accommodation spontaneously, everything stays flexible. That’s how a road trip should be.
Ouarzazate
After a few days in the mountains, we head down to Ouarzazate – a city that is almost more film set than real city. Gladiator, Game of Thrones, and The Mummy were filmed here, among others. The Kasbah Taourirt in the middle of the city looks like something out of an adventure movie, and the Atlas Film Studio is also worth a visit if you’re into sets and props.
In the city itself, it’s much warmer, the air drier, the surroundings more barren – a completely different vibe than in the mountains. But exciting!
Ourika
From Ouarzazate we continue towards the Ourika Valley – a real oasis on the edge of the Atlas Mountains. Even the approach is beautiful: green river valleys, palm trees, clay villages, and fruit stands along the roadside.
Once there, we’re greeted by a really relaxed vibe. Small restaurants right on the river invite you to linger – many with terraces where you can dangle your feet in the ice-cold water while eating. Especially at over 35 degrees, a real treat! 😅
The area is great for hiking: there are various routes through the valley and up to the small waterfalls above the village. Depending on your mood, you can go for a short walk or be out for several hours. Along the way, you’ll meet friendly locals selling tea or fresh fruit – all very laid-back and down-to-earth.
Tip: If you can, plan at least half a day – better yet, a whole day. Especially in the afternoon, it gets pleasantly quiet when the day-trippers leave. Then you almost have the valley to yourself.
Agadir
Our route takes us over the famous Tizi n’Test pass at 2,100 m altitude – with spectacular views, tight curves, and some of those “I’ll just stop and marvel” moments. Then it’s downhill towards Agadir, where we spend a day.
Compared to the mountain villages, Agadir feels almost futuristic. Especially the modern part on the beach promenade – with cafés, shops, and trendy e-scooters.
We also climb the old hill to the Kasbah Agadir Oufella, from where you have a fantastic view over the city and coast. The Kasbah dates from the 16th century and was almost completely destroyed in the great earthquake of 1960. In recent years, however, it has been lovingly restored – and today you can visit it for a small fee. The complex is modern, with information boards and viewpoints – and at sunset, a real highlight.
The huge sign “God, Homeland, King” (“الله، الوطن، الملك”) still towers visibly over the city and shines brightly over the Atlantic at night.
Taghazout
Next stop: Taghazout – our little paradise by the sea. A former fishing village that has become a hotspot for surfers and digital nomads in recent years. We stay here for three nights – and rightly so.
The vibe is chilled, the sunsets spectacular, and on the many rooftops you meet cool people from all over the world. You can surf here, of course – or just watch and enjoy a tajine. And if you prefer wheels to waves: there’s a really cool skate park right in the village. Alongside the Atlas Mountains (and Chefchaouen, which I visited on another trip), Taghazout is one of my favorites.
Paradise Valley
After a few days of relaxation in Taghazout, we don’t drive directly along the coast, but take a scenically spectacular route – via Paradise Valley and Thousand Colors. And the name says it all.
Paradise Valley 🌴
This valley is a green oasis in the otherwise dry surroundings. Palms, rocks, small natural pools – a bit like a Moroccan version of Thailand. Many come to swim, cliff jump, or just chill. Note: In the dry season, some pools may be dried up – but it’s still worth a stop.
Thousand Colors
An impressive rock formation in the middle of the desert mountains – the stones shine in all kinds of colors. Hence the name: “Thousand Colors”. A fascinating sight that shows how diverse and surprising Morocco’s nature can be.
Imsouane
We actually wanted to drive all the way to Essaouira – but with all the stops and detours, we ran out of time. So: spontaneous accommodation in Imsouane. And that was a stroke of luck!
The place is small, quiet, and incredibly relaxed – perfect for ending the day at sunset. You can also surf here (the beach break is very popular with beginners) – or just eat fresh fish and look out at the sea. In Imsouane, everything moves a bit slower. And that’s a good thing.
Essaouira
The next day we continue – of course with a few stops, including Plage Cap Sim, where we treated ourselves to a whole villa with a pool. Large rooms, huge beds, and we were the only guests – an absolute bargain for little money. Morocco can also do luxury on a low budget!
Finally: Essaouira. And what can I say – I was really positively surprised. The city is right on the water, has a beautiful old town, a huge beach, and although it’s touristy, everything feels much more relaxed than, for example, Marrakesh. A bit like Marrakesh light – but with a sea breeze and seagulls.
Especially cool: the many stray cats that stroll through the old town or sun themselves in cafés. Of course, I petted every one I met. I would have loved to take at least one with me…
Return to Marrakesh & Conclusion 🚗✨
From Essaouira, it’s straight back to Marrakesh – one last evening in the city, diving into the alleys again, buying the last spices, and saying goodbye. Returning the car at the airport was absolutely smooth: our Dacia Duster (approx. €28/day) was checked immediately, the €1,400 deposit (credit card) refunded right away.
What remains?
For me, Morocco was a journey of contrasts: between oases and desert, mountains and Atlantic, medina and mint tea. It’s the perfect country for anyone who loves freedom, adventure, and improvisation – and is open to the little surprises along the way.
Conclusion: Don’t be afraid of Morocco! 🌍❤️
Morocco isn’t a country you visit once and check off – it’s one of those countries that keeps calling you back. Whether you travel alone, as a couple, as a woman, or in a group: you’ll feel welcome here.
The people are incredibly hospitable, helpful, and proud of their country. Sure, sometimes you need a few “No, thank you” phrases – especially in souks or with tour operators. But dangerous? No. In my opinion, Morocco is one of the safest and most exciting countries in North Africa.
Whether you want to surf, hike, just stroll through the alleys, or experience the diversity of desert, mountains, and sea – Morocco offers something for everyone. I’ve been there twice now – and I’m sure: there will be a third time.
So: Don’t be afraid – just a thirst for adventure!✨
Want even more adventure?
If you enjoyed this article, feel free to check out other travel reports, or browse my Morocco guide for more tips and inspiration!